Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
